On Saturday afternoon, my husband and I hauled out five years of back issues of Paris Notes, bus and metro maps, and a pack of color-coded file cards.
While a pot of beef stew simmered away on the stove, we made lists of the museums, shops and quartiers we want to visit or revisit.
Ever the engineer, my husband even created a database. We have divided our trip into days, and each one will be spent in a different area. We have prioritized what we want to do, labeling each activity “yes” or “maybe, if time.”
We hope this will avoid wear and tear on our feet. Mine have not yet recovered from May 1, 2005, when bus service was limited because of the holiday.
We also hope it will help us be better organized than last time but still provide some spontaneity.
What struck us as we planned is that while 14 days are better than five days, we will still have to pack a lot into a short time.
(That means another trip in the offing.)
In exploring Paris, we eschew the stereotypical and seek instead the unexpected.
Frankly, the stereotypical is rather rare in Paris, at least in my experience. Yes, there are still fashionable women, and old ladies with small dogs and beautiful children and dashing men.
But if you go to France expecting to see a preponderance of men in striped shirts and berets clutching baguettes you may be disappointed.
Which brings me to the subject of clothing. My theory is dress well — fashionably but not necessarily trendy, if you can — and wear subdued colors. For me, that generally means blacks, grays, tans, navies and creams.
As I said, that is my theory. You may have your own.
Despite a plethora ofadvice from travel books and Web sites, you still see people in athletic shoes, logo T-shirts and jogging outfits in Paris.
I saw a woman near Place Maubert wearing a salmon-colored jogging suit with a scarf and gold jewelry.
I nudged my husband.
“American,” I whispered.
As we drew closer, it was clear she and her companions, who were waiting for a taxi of some sort, were from my own Wisconsin.
The next day, while wandering around Ile St. Louis, we saw a tall woman in a short, flared skirt, off-the-shoulder striped T-shirt and a beret. She spoke French with what my husband swore was a Seven Sisters accent.
It was the beret that got me. It was 86 degrees that day.
No one was wearing a beret. No one we saw, and we logged about 10 miles on foot, zigging and zagging through six arrondissements.
Perhaps the woman wanted to be mistaken for French. Perhaps she was subscribing to the theory of “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”
(Make that Paris.)
Well, who can argue with that?
I can.
My point here — and yes, I have one — is that dressing like a caricature is, in my opinion, an insult to the people you are visiting.
I believe we can travel and dress respectfully without assuming a role, without becoming what we are not.
I would hope that if we do this, we would look not like stereotypes of chic French people or badly dressed foreigners, and look instead like citizens of the world.
26 comments:
First off....thank you SO much for the link to Paris Notes. Had never heard of it and I just subscribed for 10 issues via mail. Have a feeling it will be invaluable!
Have to say your husband and me could be team mates...that is exactly how I travel. Very organized, have lists, do mega research. BUT...leave the door open on arrival for the unexpected. I'm always pleasantly surprised and never disappointed.
Re Paris dress: I always dress in the blacks, grays, and navy colors. American's do tend to stand out with their brightly colored clothes. Even in spring or summer. Sounds like you're back in the French groove and counting down to departure time!
(PS...your comment on my blog. My secret dream was always to be a journalist. Maybe in my next lifetime....lol)
I agree that everywhere I've been in the world, the Americans often tend to stand out, and not in a good way. I'm sure you will look wonderful, and I'm getting excited for you just hearing about it.
Mimi I am twitching with excitment!
A very fond memory of our trip last fall: Sue & I were returning to the barge from a bakery run and passed an outside cafe. One lady pointed us out to her husband (they sitting at a table as we pass) "French girls"! So fun! Americans do tend to stand out in their bright colors and wacky outfits.
My Canadian husband lives in fear of being thought American when we travel! I try and look "Canadian", which for me means somewhere between the glamor of fashionable Montreal and a jogging suit. Grey, black, brown, and walking shoes that are not running shoes, because you never know when you'll want to stop walking and enjoy a lovely meal at the little bistro around the corner.
Dearest Mimi,
As one who has known you since we were young girls I say with the authority of many years that you have always had style. This is so no matter where you travel in the world both in your wardrobe and your writing.
You are a testimony that grace grows in the pastures of Wisconsin.
The Milkmaid
Terri, I'm so glad you are joining the Paris Notes fold. I started subscribing about 4 years ago, and downloaded back issues to 2000.
I don't know why more people don't read the guiebooks tips on travel dressing. When I open my mouth, despite my best efforts, they will know me by my accent.
Kalyn, you will all be coming with me via my laptop. BTW, the SDB is doing a great job for me.
Oh, Tanna, I think my thighs are too big to be mistaken for me to be mistaken for French woman. LOL.
Lydia, a French-Canadian friend provided us with little maple leaves to wear on our lapels if things get too dicey anywhere. I never belived in stereotypes of American tourists until I traveled overseas...
Milkmaid, you are too kind.
Its interesting the way different nationalites stand out by their dress codes, hair styles, make-up and accessories etc. etc. I can usually pick an American, as well as my own countrymen from the antipodes. We all have our different "look", walk, pose, attitude etc. That's before we even open our mouths to speak.
I say wherever you go wear something that is comfortable, particularly in the footwear department. There is nothing worse than getting sore feet and/or blisters on your first day out.
I think your lists and organisation is great Mimi.
Yes, comfort is paramount, Fi.
In May, the weather is a bit iffy, so layers are essential, too.
I think we're going to be in Paris at the same time! I'm meeting my sister there for a few days late April/early May. I need to start getting organized! Can I borrow your husband?
Hope you have a wonderful trip!
My advice is you can wear anything, as long as it's black. Jeans are okay, as long as everything else is black. Likewise for running shoes (except white ones) and scarfs. I wear khakis, which marked me as an American, but heck, I am an American. (And actually, we weren't always typed correctly.) There's only so much pre-trip purchasing that's reasonable. Have yet to purchase a beret yet (and probably never will) but have a great scarf.
Paris is somewhere I've always longed to visit but so far the opportunity has not arisen. Planning is fun and I look forward to reading all about it when you return.
When I get asked about what to where here I always say "no jeans and no trainers (sneakers, athletic shoes).
Inevetibly these same people will then say "but I saw people wearing jeans, etc."
Right, but you have to notice the age. Young people wear them everywhere, old farmers wear them in the field, but (excuse this please,) middle-age people do not wear them in Paris - at least not if they want good service from the Parisian waiters....
You neutral colors are perfect - but don't forget to throw on a bright scarf!
I had to giggle a few times in this post. First of all...your husband and the spreadsheet. I'm glad my hubby isn't the only person out there to do this sort of thing for a vacation! Classic!
LouLou, I will watch for you!
ChrisL, my entire wardrobe is black. But I may take some navy this time...
ChrisB, sometimes I think planning is the MOST fun...
Katie, I may be American, but my wardrobe is very French and I have at least 60 scarves.
Kristen, I think it's pretty funny, too!
Oh Mimi...I loved this post and I especially love your words "I believe we can travel and dress respectfully without assuming a role, without becoming what we are not." C'est vrai!
Reminds me of my own trip to Paris and how I was warned that I MUST wear black, so I rushed out to get appropriate clothing for my Paris persona - even though not caring about clothes is my basic New York persona! I was so terrified of being judged by Parisians I didn't even know - and a little pissed at myself for caring so much. But I must admit by adding a few tasty scarves and a great grey jacket with black undertones, I actually enjoyed this new Ronnie. And since I had all those new clothes anyway, black became my new New York persona. Now I just need to go somewhere that would force me to buy some color. (-;
A heck of a lot easier to coordinate your wardrobe when most everything in it is basic black!!! I think those new ballerina flats are so sweet, and would look good with nearly anything, but there is simply no support in them. I can only wear mine when I will not be doing much walking. Sounds like Paris is getting down to the wire!
Thanks, Ronnie! I cannot explain why, but I have always built my wardrobe around black. A Black Clothing Gene perhaps, one that has survived 300 years in North America? Oh, that's another post topic.
Oh, Cyn, I love those shows but they kill me. I have a pair of Clarks that will do and I might look into a pair of Danskos for the plane.
No spike heels. My feet will be a dead giveway!
Hi Mimi,
I'm jumping in late as usual. Like you, my entire wardrobe is built around black. I wear it year round. Purple and red follow closely as accessories.
I completely agree with you: fashionable but not trendy.
The eleven days I spent in Paris, I wore long skirts (one a slim corderoy, the other soft denim) or black jeans-type pants, with linen shirts. I had two pairs of shoes, one low-heeled sandals and the other open-toed slides with a 1 1/2 inch heel. My husband wore Docker-style pants, nice, button-up cotton shirts and, on cool days, a tweed jacket. No where were we typed as Americans. In fact, French people would approach my husband asking for directions, in French!
The only spike heels I saw anywhere in Paris was once, on a young woman who, while crossing the bridge very near the Louvre in her slim, haute couture dress and her 3-inch heels, tiptoeing over the cobblestones, looked extremely uncomfortable and out of place. Other than that, everyone I saw, Parisians and tourists alike, were sensibly, casually but nicely dressed. Would the fact that we were there in late Sept., early Oct. have anything to do with that?
I'm so happy for you that your trip is coming up soon!
Regarding clothing for Paris and in general, I'm always amused by the "[fill in the blank] is the next black" articles and pronouncements. No, black is always the next black.
Based on my admittedly seven-year-old experience, if you bring blue jeans, save them for "le weekend" as the French do.
Christine, your wardrobe is very much like mine.
So far: Little black dress, several pairs of black trousers, sleeveless tops in white and black, white linen tunic, black microfiber tunic, short white jacket, short tan jacket, black sweater, white twinset. Black walking shoes, low-heeled black sandals. Scarves in white, black, black-and-white and red.
TerryB, I agree with you on black. It is always black. It is always chic.
I totally agree with you about dressing. I wish more people felt as you do.
Thanks, Lisa.
I bought a striped t-shirt last night in black and white to tied black and white pieces together - I hope it won't look silly. Floral prints are great, but I prefer straight lines and geometics on me.
Mimi
Wonderful blog. I've been spending the past 12 months in Paris trying to "de-Americanize" my look. I do the "who's American?" game all the time here and get it right about 75 % of the time. Yes the trick is to dress subtly, and yet...here's my take.
Fashion tip for Paris: subdued, pulled-together colors and look but add a startling, unexpected touch: All black or beige but with a yellow belt OR red patent loafers. A denim skirt and tall black boots but a lacy top. That kind of thing. Look like you know what you're doing and do it proudly.
My impression is that for French women, comfort is at the bottom of the list fashion-wise. It's more an attitude of get what fits and looks great, and wear that one thing. Beauty (looking chic) is a better feel-good benefit than comfort a la sweatsuit. comfortable right now, think about other things.
On the other hand, it's good to just be glad to be an Amercian here -- but an American who "gets it" in terms of demeanor and dress.
I am traumatized about wearing Nikes in public here, but expat friends who have lived here for years have no problem with it-- IF they are out for exercise. Then they go home and change.
Anyway, thanks for the great post and keep in touch.
I'll take your advice and add some color. I brought some red stuff along last time, too, since I have a lot of it.
Thanks, Polly.
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This can't have effect in actual fact, that's exactly what I think.
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