"Tra la, it's May, the lusty month of May..."So goes the song from the musical "Camelot."
It's been a chilly April where I live, and May Day does not appear to be dawning any differently. I am pleased to report we've at least got an early morning sun.
The weather this year reminds me of the weather the year my husband and I were engaged. Walking down Madison's State Street on my noon hour, I saw a shivering mallard duck take shelter in a doorway. A group of Morris dancers in full costume passed me. Most everyone else wore sweaters and jackets.
By contrast, the photo above was taken on a nearly-90 degree day in Paris (taken as we sought a cool respite on the Ilse St. Louis). We walked from one end of the city to another that day, returning to our hotel in the 13th exhausted. We got a late start as we sought evening sustenance, and found few cafés open.
We entered a small place on the Boulevard de L'Hopital, and asked the owner what could be prepared quickly. Although he was about to close, he made us two salads Nicoise. Soon other hungry people arrived, and he prepared food for them as well.
I always tell this story and others when someone tries to persuade me the French - especially Parisians - are rude and hate Americans. What nonsense.
23 comments:
I can vouch that April 14th was horrific in Paris weather wise, but it has been much nicer the past two weeks and should be 65 degrees tomorrow. I have not had any problems with French rudeness, mostly thanks from passengers and crew who need help! All I keep telling people is that if you learn the extreme basics and make an attempt to speak French, everyone will be helpful. Imagine if you were walking down the street in Green Bay and someone asked you a question in Urdu. When you didn't understand, they would repeat said question LOUDER and slower. I've already seen it in Paris...
Jill
It's always dangerous to generalize about an entire culture -- it's only individuals who are rude. I have met wonderful, helpful people in Paris, and some not so helpful. But I can say the same about Boston, New York, London, and everywhere else I've traveled.
Jill, I was part of a conversation just yesterday that made that very same point. Louder does not help. My four and a half years of French come back to me rather well, but I still have problems remembering male vs. female and some verb forms.
I wonder why people generalize, Lydia, I guess it's out of anger at a perceived slight. I have run into rude people in Paris, too, but it's nothing like some French basher would have you believe. I guess people feel safe with generalizations because ambiguity is hard to deal with. I dunno. I'm too tired to figure it out tonight.
I never met any rude people when I went to France, Like Kitoko says...if you at least TRY to speak French people are cool.
I will never forget the time I was trying to get somewhere on the Metro (or maybe the train?) and I just couldn't figure out what the ticket taker lady was trying to tell me...so she closed up her booth, took me by the hand UP to the street and pointed across the street to the OTHER station I was supposed to be at.
You couldn't get someone to do that for you in the US that's for sure.
Man, I gotta go back there! I'm so jealous of you Mimi! =)
MaryRuth, I am pretty nervous about the next trip because of the dollar's virtual uselessness. But for the most part, I set aside money pretty regularly and wait a long time between trips. This was one conceived last summer, and it will probably be a longer time between trips after that.
But I've experience incidents like the one you mention, too. It is worth the wait, because the people I have met are wonderful.
I completely agree, Mimi - most of the Parisians I have met on my four trips have been helpful, polite and kind. I do try to use my "schoolgirl French" and I know that helps but we have met with extraordinary kindness - on a single RER trip from DeGaulle to Paris, one man helped us with the ticket machine and then _gave_ us the tickets, another gave us his large map of Paris and directions about where to get off, and a woman offered to help me carry my suitcase up the Metro steps! J'adore les francais!
Zoomie, I'm glad to hear your experiences - they are a lot like mine. A few years back my husband made a mistake with the "composteur" at Austerlitz. The conductor was so sweet about it.
We did meet a snooty waiter once. We thought he was just putting on an act for us. He was pretty sweet, too!
I guess it's all in the outlook!
I thought I had found a snooty saleswoman - she greeted me with a positively _glacial_ "May I help you?"- in Fauchon one time as I was browsing through their goods, picking things up and turning them over, etc. I said, "No, thank you" and turned back to the shelves only to find several signs, in English, all along the shelves saying, "Please do not touch!" So, she wasn't snooty, I was clueless!
Ah, yes, they don't like you to touch things. I have to admit that I have not explored too many shops in Paris, especially if they look overly upmarket. I have explored St. Paul Village and that area of the Marais, but have generally stayed away from snooty-looking places.
I will tell you that my experience with the 13th is that it is very down-home and friendly. Not at all the Paris of the movies or even the guidebooks, but in many ways, the real Paris. We were also very intrigued by area on Rue de la Roquette that is near Pere Lachaise - very real and a nice ethnic mix.
Oh, you were lucky, trust me!!!
Lucky? Comment? Pourquoi?
Hi! I lived in Paris for many years and I know that Parisians aren't really friendly and helpful. I'm often ashamed of that because Paris is a fabulous city, but people are not nice enough. I have tones of examples such as when I went to the Café at Bon Marché at 5.30 and the waiter said to us " You are going to close in 15 minutes" And, I answered, " Bonjour, tout de même" However, I'm happy that people find nice places in Paris and I also know some of them.
I'm a fan of the Marais, too - last time, we rented an adorable little apartment in the Marais for the week and loved the whole experience! But, then, I'm a fan of all of Paris! And, one of the loveliest encounters I had with a saleswoman was in an upscale shop - she complimented my schoolgirl French and couldn't have been nicer! So, don't shy away from the upscale ones next time you go!
Anne, I have had an unpleasant encounter or two. I was looking forward to a shop on Rue St. Paul that sells old kitchen stuff and other sundries. The man behind the counter did not even acknowledge me, even though I said "Bonjour, Monsieur," and smiled politely. Luckily, I found nothing there I wanted. On the other hand, I made friends with a lovely deli owner in the 7th who hugged me when I told her we were leaving. Some people are just gracious and kind and others are unhappy campers. BTW, I am so intrigued with your blog.
Thank you for returning!
Zoomie, I am not even sure we will get out of the Marais next time we visit as there is so little time. I do want to try Le Tuuile de Loup on Rue Daubenton as it was closed last time, and I love the flower market on Ile de la Cite, so maybe...
I liked hearing about your experience in the upscale shop adn I will think of you as I try to be brave!
I must say, as an American living in Paris, sometimes louder and slower DOES help. At least for me, when somebody mumbles something in French (or those people behind the windows in the train stations - it can be so hard to hear them) and I ask them to repeat it, they usually bust out some horrible broken, heavily accented english. What ensues is an awkward conversation where I'm trying to explain that yes, I do speak French, I just can't understand when you speak so quickly and quietly. And they will continue to attempt English, and we all end up frustrated and irritated. If it ends up being easier in English, I always try to speak clearly and not use too many idiomatic expressions or complicated phrases.
Apart from that, I love living in Paris. It is a daily adventure.
And now to get outside and enjoy the parisian spring. I'm afraid the sun is only visiting temporarily, so I want to make the most of it!
I hope you are enjoying some beautiful May weather now.
And I completely agree... it is nonsense to generalize about a culture of people. It just shows ignorance, in my opinion!
Great post, as always, Mimi!
Camille, I have a terrible time understanding fast French. While I do not consider myself a slow talker, I usually chose my words carefully in English, so I am really slow in French. slow to speak and usually slow to comprehend. My classroom French is no match for Parisian French.
Kristen, it is nice here today, too, but of course it is a work day! Thank you for your kind words!
What nonsense, indeed. I have never had a bad experience in France, although I'm certain that there are rude French people. But people anywhere on this earth react to arrogance and rudeness, and I have seen tourists from different countries (not just the U.S.) be arrogant and rude. So why wouldn't they get it back in kind? What Jill says is absolutely true - just try a little and you'll find that people are friendly and helpful.
And as for the weather, San Diego has gone schizophrenic. One day it's 80 degrees, and the next it's in the 60s and drizzling. Should I make a soup or grill something?
Enjoyed this one. We've had such great experiences with the French and rude is not a word we would use to generalize the French people with. The cultural things are great to understand behavior, like the touching produce and even other things to buy, understanding that takes that issue away.
Two lovely photographs and so evocative of Paris. As I look, I'm there!
You know, Toni, I never realized until I started traveling to France that so many people had so many misconceptions.
I agree, Tanna. Once in the Lot Valley, we had a hard time with the gas pumps. A woman got out of her car to help us. Another time, a beautiful older woman spoke to us on the street, telling us to enjoy Paris on a sunny day.
Jilly, thank you. I visit Menton daily, thanks to you!
I love your story. Its simply impossible to make statements about the entire population of any given country. I love the french, they are different to me but I love them. Anybody who drinks wine and eats cheese at every meal I have to love!! ;-)
Cherry xoxoxo
Cherry, thank you for checking in!
I feel the same way about wine and cheese! In fact I am drinking wine right now.
And I like people who are different - they fascinate me!
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